What Should You Do After Home Inspection Results?
After you get your home inspection results, you should flag deal-breakers fast: structural movement, active roof leaks or failed flashing, unsafe electrical wiring, major plumbing defects, and environmental hazards like radon, pests, or septic failure. Then you should rank the remaining items by safety, cost, and how they affect financing and insurance. You should get written, itemized quotes from licensed contractors and use them to negotiate repairs, credits, or a price reduction. Next, you’ll see how to confirm fixes and plan a final walk-through.
Spot Home Inspection Deal-Breakers Fast
Before you negotiate or waive anything, scan the inspection report for true deal-breakers—issues that threaten structural integrity, safety, insurability, or financing—such as shifting foundations (large cracks, sloping floors, bowed walls), active roof failure (missing/curled shingles, leaks, rotted decking), electrical fire risks (aluminum wiring, overloaded/double-tapped breakers, missing GFCIs), major plumbing defects (corroded PB/cast iron/galvanized lines, persistent leaks or pressure problems), and environmental hazards (radon, asbestos, hidden mold, termites, septic failure, flood or buried-tank risks) that can trigger lender rejection or require remediation costing from thousands to tens of thousands of dollars. Confirm scope: note sagging beams, sticking doors, and ceiling cracking; request a structural engineer when floors separate from walls. For roofs, verify active moisture staining and failed flashing; insurers may decline worn systems. Asphalt roofs typically last about twenty years. In electrical, treat dimming lights and ungrounded outlets as safety defects. In plumbing, document material type and recurring leaks. Order tests for radon, pests, and septic where applicable.
Rank Home Inspection Repairs by Risk and Cost
Next, prioritize structural and envelope items that escalate fast: foundation cracks/settling (often $2,000–$25,000; ~$4,500 average), roof leaks or damaged flashing, and compromised attic ventilation that can deteriorate framing. Then rank major system failures by habitability and lender scrutiny: HVAC malfunctions, plumbing leaks/water heater deterioration, and electrical panel or outlet failures. Place lower-risk items last: end-of-life components, gutters, grading tune-ups, vegetation clearing, and cosmetic fixture updates. Start with safety hazards first, since they can affect financing and must be addressed before many loans are approved.
Get Quotes for Roof, Electrical, Plumbing, Septic
Once your inspection flags roof, electrical, plumbing, or septic issues, get written quotes from the appropriate licensed contractors—don’t rely on the inspector’s ballpark numbers—because repair pricing can vary by as much as 300% based on region, scope, and expertise. Request itemized scopes, permits, and timelines so you can compare bids on the same work standard. Buyers typically cover the inspection cost out of pocket, so budgeting for these follow-up quotes is part of planning.
For roofing, treat leaks, flashing failures, and missing shingles as priority; full replacement often runs $8,000–$15,000+ depending on materials and size. For electrical, hire a qualified electrician to price panel corrections or rewiring; whole-house rewires can range $6,000–$20,000, and safety defects warrant prompt evaluation. For plumbing, ask for moisture checks around foundations and framing; minor leaks may be under $450, but hidden damage can exceed $10,000, and sewer line replacement can run $3,000–$25,000. For septic/drainage, obtain specialized assessments; drainage repairs commonly cost $2,000–$6,000.
Negotiate: Repairs vs Credits vs Price Reduction
Although an inspection report doesn’t force a single outcome, it gives you concrete leverage to choose among three standards-based negotiation paths: require the seller to complete specific repairs, request a closing credit so you can handle the work after purchase, or seek a price reduction that reflects documented deficiencies. Use repairs when defects create safety hazards, insurance disqualification, or legal exposure—examples include faulty wiring, insufficient smoke alarms, termite infestation, or major HVAC, drainage, foundation, or structural issues affecting value. Request credits when you want control over contractors, sequencing, or materials, or when the seller can’t practically perform work before closing; document amounts with bids. Ask for a price reduction when deficiencies are significant and long-lived (roof, heater), and tie the cut to scope and cost; 46% of buyers negotiate lower prices using reports. The inspector’s detailed report is often crucial during the closing process. Adjust expectations to market conditions: sellers concede less in a seller’s market, more in a buyer’s market.
Verify Fixes and Plan Your Final Walk-Through
After you’ve negotiated repairs, credits, or a price reduction, verify that the seller met the written terms before you sign closing documents. Request receipts, invoices, and transferable warranties, and match them to the contract. Recheck prior defects—leaks, cracks, stains—and scan walls, floors, and ceilings for new damage or incomplete patching. It’s also wise to ensure that any systems like HVAC systems have been properly maintained and are in good working order.
During your final walk-through, test systems and items you’ll inherit. Operate stove burners, oven, refrigerator, microwave, and run the dishwasher through a full cycle; also test the washer, dryer, and garbage disposal. Confirm every switch, outlet, and cover plate is intact, and run ceiling and exhaust fans. Flush toilets and run hot and cold water at sinks, showers, and tubs; verify drainage, pressure, and no leaks, plus intact caulking. Test HVAC and thermostat, check vent temperatures, and confirm doorbell, garage door, keypads, locks, and windows work. Verify the home is empty, clean, and document with photos. Also confirm the overall cleanliness of the house before closing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I Share the Inspection Report With My Insurance Company?
You usually shouldn’t share the full inspection report with your insurance company unless your policy or underwriting explicitly requires it. About 1 in 4 homeowner claims get scrutinized for pre-existing conditions, and a report can be used to limit coverage. Instead, give only the specific pages relevant to the issue, or request your inspector provide a summary letter. Route claim strategy through your attorney, and let insurers inspect independently.
Can I Switch Lenders if Inspection Issues Delay My Timeline?
Yes—you can switch lenders if inspection issues delay your timeline, as long as you haven’t signed closing documents. You’ll need to confirm your contract’s closing date and extension options, because a new lender’s underwriting and appraisal can add days or weeks and could risk your earnest money. Apply with the new lender immediately, compare APR and fees, and ask whether they’ll transfer the existing appraisal.
What Happens if the Seller Refuses Access for Follow-Up Inspections?
If the seller refuses reasonable access for follow-up inspections during due diligence, you can treat it as a contingency problem and walk away with your earnest money. You can also negotiate a credit, repairs, or a shorter list of less intrusive checks. You can’t force invasive testing if it’s unreasonably intrusive. If you proceed, you accept added risk and should document the refusal in writing.
Do I Need a Separate Appraisal if Major Defects Are Discovered?
Yes—you’ll almost always still need a separate appraisal, even when major defects surface. The twist: the appraiser values the home “as is,” and lenders rely on that report to fund your loan. If defects affect safety, soundness, or habitability, FHA/VA/USDA may require repairs or a “subject to” appraisal condition. Fixing or documenting repairs before appraisal helps you avoid a low value or denial.
Will Inspection Findings Affect My Property Taxes After Purchase?
Inspection findings won’t directly change your property taxes after purchase. Your assessed value typically resets to the purchase price at closing under Proposition 13, then can rise up to 2% annually. Taxes increase when you complete new construction or permitted improvements that add value, since permits notify the assessor. Even unpermitted upgrades can trigger reassessment if discovered. Defects may lower appraisal or price, but not the tax base.