You’ll most often see inspection concerns around foundation and drainage, roof and flashing, electrical safety, and plumbing leaks. Watch for cracks wider than 1/8 inch, stair-step or horizontal cracking, damp basements, efflorescence, missing gutters, or soil sloping toward the house. On the roof, note missing or curled shingles, exposed plywood, and failed flashing sealant. Inside, flag FPE/Zinsco panels, double-tapped breakers, missing GFCIs, and active leaks or aging pipes. Keep going to see what to prioritize first.
Foundation, Grading, and Drainage Inspection Red Flags
While a home inspection can’t certify structural soundness, it can flag foundation, grading, and drainage conditions that you should treat as high-priority: foundation cracks wider than 1/8 inch, horizontal/diagonal or stair-step cracking, efflorescence or persistent dampness in basements and crawl spaces, and exterior drainage defects such as missing gutters, short downspout discharge, or soil that slopes toward the house and allows water to pool at the perimeter. Water is the biggest threat to foundations, so any recurring moisture near the perimeter should be treated as an urgent maintenance and drainage correction item. If you see horizontal or diagonal cracking, you should assume differential settlement or inward wall pressure until a licensed structural engineer evaluates it within 48 hours and provides repair options. Hairline concrete cracks may be benign, but stair-step cracks in block or brick often reflect uneven movement. Inside, note musty odors, wetness, or white mineral deposits; they signal seepage and elevated mold risk. Outside, check grading, erosion, and heaved patios or walks for soil instability. Confirm gutters and downspouts discharge away from the foundation.
Roof, Flashing, and Attic Ventilation Inspection Issues
Three roof-system areas deserve immediate attention on your inspection report: the shingle field, all flashing and roof penetrations, and attic ventilation. If shingles are missing, curled, cracked, or warped, you’ve likely got age- or wind-related wear; exposed plywood increases the chance of attic and interior water damage, especially on older 3-tab roofs where loose tabs often blow off. You can often spot granule loss from the ground, which may indicate the shingles are aging or have been impacted by recent storms.
Next, review flashing at chimneys, valleys, vents, and skylights. Inspectors flag rust, gaps, lifted edges, and cracked sealant because freeze-thaw cycling accelerates deterioration and invites leakage. Plan on annual checks to keep small seepage from turning into hidden rot.
Finally, confirm the attic breathes. Inadequate airflow drives moisture, condensation, and temperature extremes that shorten roof life and promote ice dams. You’ll also want gutters draining properly; clogged or sagging sections can back water under shingles. Look for stains, mold, or soft fascia as proof of past leaks.
Electrical Panel and Wiring Problems in Home Inspections
Because electrical defects can sit hidden behind a closed panel cover or a “working” receptacle, you should treat any inspection-noted wiring or service issues as immediate safety and insurance concerns. If your report flags Federal Pacific (FPE) or Zinsco equipment (common from the 1950s–1980s), plan for replacement, since breaker failures raise fire risk and some insurers won’t write policies; national costs average about $2,400. You should also note that homes built from 1965 to 1973 may contain aluminum wiring, which can overheat and create a fire hazard if left unaddressed.
You should also address capacity: many mid-century and 1970s homes run panels at or beyond their amperage rating, so added loads push circuits past safe margins. If the inspector notes double-tapped breakers, you’ll likely need a licensed electrician to move conductors onto properly rated terminals or add breakers where space allows. For 1965–1973 homes, verify whether aluminum branch wiring exists and obtain an electrician’s mitigation plan. Finally, correct missing GFCIs in wet locations and open grounds; testers commonly confirm these defects during inspection.
Plumbing Leaks and Health/Safety Items That Delay Closing
Plumbing issues can derail closing just as fast as electrical defects, especially when a leak or venting problem creates a health, safety, or insurability concern. Inspectors flag dripping faucets, leaking supply lines, moisture under sinks, and failed washing-machine hoses because worn seals and aging pipes can drive water damage, mold growth, and higher bills. You’ll also need to address leaking hose bibs, which waste water and can trigger freeze damage in cold climates.
Material and safety defects raise bigger stakes. Galvanized steel and polybutylene (1978–1994) often corrode or fail; rust, scaling, and restricted flow signal replacement risk. Lead pipes or solder create health exposure. Water heaters past service life, leaking, or missing a working pressure relief valve typically require licensed evaluation; improper flue venting or faulty gas lines can elevate carbon monoxide risk. Slow drains, gurgling, missing clean-outs, and vent defects can allow sewer gas or indicate sewer line blockages, roots, or construction debris. Unpermitted DIY repairs must be corrected to code. A dedicated plumbing inspection can reveal hidden issues behind walls or under floors before they become costly surprises for new owners.
Frequently Asked Questions
How Long Does a Typical Home Inspection Take?
You can expect a typical home inspection to take about 2–4 hours on-site; remember, “measure twice, cut once.” For a standard 1,500–2,500 sq ft home, you’ll usually spend 2–3 hours, and a 2,000 sq ft home often runs 2.5–3 hours. Smaller condos take 60–90 minutes, while larger or older homes, pools, crawlspaces, basements, and multiple HVAC units can add time.
Should I Attend the Inspection, and What Should I Bring?
You should attend the inspection if you can, because you’ll see conditions firsthand, ask questions in real time, and better understand the report for negotiations and maintenance planning. If you can’t, the inspection’s still valid—use the report, photos, or a video call. Bring a notebook, phone/camera, flashlight, purchase agreement, disclosures, and your concern list. Confirm utilities are on and access is clear.
What Repairs Are Usually Negotiable With the Seller After Inspection?
You can usually negotiate repairs tied to safety, function, water intrusion, and structural integrity. Ask for credits or licensed corrections for foundation cracks, settlement, sloping floors, bowed walls, and sagging beams. Negotiate roof leaks, lifted shingles, failing seals, and exterior drainage or gutter problems. Push for fixes to HVAC imbalance, plumbing defects, water heater installation, and electrical panel wiring. Cosmetic trim, paint, or flooring gaps may qualify, but carry less leverage.
Will the Inspection Report Include Cost Estimates for Recommended Repairs?
Usually, no—you won’t get repair cost estimates in a standard inspection report; it’s not part of most inspectors’ scope, so don’t hold your breath. Standards like ASHI focus on documenting condition and safety concerns, while many states don’t require pricing. Some reports may name the type of qualified pro to quote repairs. If you need numbers, you can order a separate estimate report using local pricing data.
How Soon Should I Schedule Re-Inspections After Repairs Are Completed?
Schedule your reinspection as soon as the seller confirms all agreed repairs are fully completed and you’ve received receipts or permits. You should book it 3–5 days before closing, not the day before, so you’ve got time to address any missed items. Coordinate with your original inspector, send a repair verification list, and confirm access with the listing agent. Expect 2–3 items to need follow-up.
